Nothing brings the human dimension of war closer to home than standing amid a sea of headstones in a Canadian War Cemetery. The orderly rows of tombstones etched with the names of our soldiers, air crews and navy personnel killed in action are vivid reminders about those who fought and died for peace and freedom. A visitor can't help but come away with a deeper sense of admiration and respect for our veterans. And, as happened at the Moro River Canadian War Cemetery in Italy, a visitor may also learn a valuable lesson ...

It's September 2004 and the day is just beginning in Santo Stefano di Sessanio, a medieval town in the Apennine Mountains, 145 kilometers east of Rome. It's also the final day of a two-week visit, and my son and his wife are outside the apartment loading the car for our trip to Rome and a return flight to Canada...