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All Saints' Day

Ognissanti is celebrated on 1st November, and the 2nd of November is the day dedicated to all the dear ones who passed away. People are visiting the cemeteries this Sunday and the next few days to leave fresh flowers - The tradition goes back to early Christianity, when the fathers of the church, seeing that among the country folk some pagan feasts were still very popular, tried to introduce these feasts into the lithurgy.

In this way All Saints Day, which honored the early Christian martyrs, was established on the 1st of November to merge with the ancient Druid rituals of October 31st, which was the Eve of New Year's Day in the Celtic calendar, a rite of passage, that is why the return of Dead Ones to the earth. The day of the Dead Ones means a closer dialogue with them, forgetting about everyday problems and looking to them for comfort and strength.

Folk traditions include lighting on the window sills at sunset a "lumino" (red candle) and laying a table for the dear dead ones who would come and visit and leave the children confetti and greenbeans to teach them that they were keeping an eye on them too (the tradition emphasized the importance of a connection between past and younger generations). Then on November 1st almost everywhere the first "caldarroste" (roasted chestnuts) for the enjoyment of young and old.

San Martino: the Saint

Born in the early 4th century AD in Sabaria (nowadays Szambatkely, Hungary), the son of an officer of the Roman Empire, came to pavia with his family to study humanities. When he was 15 he followed his father's military career. Near Amiens the famous episode of the mantle took place. In 339 he was baptized, then in 354 he left the army and became a monk, wandering in France, Hungary, Italy, famous for his miracles and the protection he gave to the humble. In 360 in Ligugé, France he founded the first Western monastery, and in 371 the citizens of Tours wanted him as their bishop. He died on 8 november 367 in Tours. He is widely worshipped in Europe, and only in Italy there are over 150 places bearing his name.

San Martino: the Miracle

It was November the 11, a cold, rainy day. The Roman knight was all covered in his mantle, when he say along the road an almost naked frail old man. He did not hesitate: took out his sword, and cut his mantle into two, giving one half to the poor man. He has just gone a little further when the rain stops, the clouds give way to the clear sky, the air gets warmer under the rays of the sun. He does not need his half of the mantle any more. That night Martin dreamt of Jesus, who was thanking him for his half of the mantle, and realized he was indeed the poor old man.

S. Martino: Festa dei Cornuti

On the day of San Martino there are fairs and festivals in many places in Abruzzo. The "Festa dei Cornuti" has actually nothing to do with the real historical figure of St. Martin. It was as in most cases a relic of pagan festivals connected with ancient Roman and Celtic traditions, especially with the Celtic new year which was welcomed with popular games and feasts. In popular belief, however, San Martino is the protector of the "cornuti" (betrayed husbands), the figure of the "cornuto" in Italy gave rise to innumerable traditions, songs and proverbs. The concept is embedded in popular culture and the attribute of "cornuto" is used in such different contexts as criticism of referee's attitude ("arbitro cornuto!"), as a gesture of protection from bad luck (fist closed, little finger and pointing finger showing as a pair of horns) when someone says something we don't want to happen and want to exorcise (equivalent of "touch wood"), and is used by motorists when they pass a slower car in contempt (do not use it while driving, some motorists take it very badly). In Italian people say "mettere le corna" meaning "betray", and it is common mythology that the horn-bearer cannot see his horns, while all the world laughs at him - laughing at horns and bearing horns on this day is almost a sign of brotherhood with all the poor fellows victims of women's unfaithfulness.

San Martino: the festivals

In Romagna under the Malatesta the Fiera di San Martino in Santarcangelo was of great importance to replenish stores for the coming winter. But it is also the "fira di bec", (becco in the local dialect is a betrayed husband). In the main square in Santarcangelo under an arch there are horns hanging, and the tradition says they move if some unfortunate betrayed husband walks below them. So friends challenge each other to pass under, and when the horns move there is great laughing at the unfortunate fellow.

In Grottammare, Campania, there is also a big fair with a traditional "corsa dei cornuti". Some say it is a Lombard tradition, when the Lombards paraded with their helmets with big horns in honor of the saint. Other say it is a rural tradition, the peasants sold on the market also the products that were to be given to the landlords, in this way making them "cornuti".

In San Valentino in Abruzzo Citeriore there is a parade of allegorical waggons, many with horns and phallic symbols, in Nereto a traditional Fair. The Festa dei Cornuti is mainly a male festival, everywhere men meet for dinners, elect the year's "cornuto", drink and eat dishes with red pepper ("peperoncino", which reinforces men's virility and therefore does not lead their wives to betray them).

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